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For a true Mexican taste experience, there’s no need to make reservations, just check out the streets or hit the beach.
Next, it’s beach time!
Like a greeter, a man comes up with a pole across his shoulders, a round gourd hangs from one end and a box of ice from the other. In his hand, he carries a tote bag full of cups, fruit and other things. He is the tubero, the Tuba man!
Tuba is a creamy, white sweet wine, lightly alcoholic (that grows more so as the hours pass), made from a combination of coconut milk and palm sap. When served, it’s poured over clean chipped ice, then chopped nuts and little chunks of apple are added.
While you’re relaxing on the beach, the food vendors come to you. One has mangos on a stick, dusted with chile powder. Another brings elote (ay-LOH-tay), roast corn on the cob with mayonnaise to slather on it and chile powder to perk up its flavor.
Then there are men with fresh grilled prawns like kabobs on sticks, fresh mahi-mahi or some other white fish, and fresh oysters.
Try Mariscos Vicky for fresh-from-the-grill seafood and oysters. A few tables and chairs and the grill are on the beach, beside the arched pedestrian bridge between the Playa los Arcos Hotel and Langostino’s.
Later in the afternoon, take time for a walk and an Aztec treat, tejuino (teh-hWEENO).
At the north end of the malecón, on Avenida Mexico, past the supermarket is a big Pemex station. At the corner of the station there’s the man with his cart announcing “tejuino.” It’s a cold, thick, lime-flavored drink made of fermented corn and lime juice to which lime sherbet is added. An ancient response to the hot sun.
Walking back toward the malecón, at Parque Hidalgo, keep an eye out for Raspados Carmen Tucan. It’s a vendor’s cart that became a shop that sells another ethnic treat, raspados (rah-SPAH-dohs) with 25 flavours. Basically, they are snow cones, shaved ice with flavoured syrups made from natural fruits. Carmen Tucan’s meet the highest hygienic standards.
For dinner, prepare for a major eating experience, Tacos al Pastor. (pah-STOHR). These tacos are stuffed with thin slices of deeply marinated pork, layered on a vertical spit called a trompo, and topped by peeled fresh pineapple. The meat grills slowly over hot coals, like a Greek gyro.
This manner of grilling was brought to Mexico by Lebanese immigrants in the 19th century.
Marinades are individual and usually secret. The pork marinates for several days and then cooks slowly—over coals, not with gas—which is what produces the luscious smoky flavour.
Two places are well worth trying. One is Pancho’s Takos (not a misspelling) on Basilio Badillo just past the corner with Olas Altas. The other, Pepe’s Tacos, is on Honduras across from the Pemex Station where you find the tejuino man. Pancho’s Takos is fairly small with about a dozen tables. No sign out front, just that wonderfully fragrant spit of slowly cooking orange-red pork with its pineapple crown.
Not far away, at Pepe’s Tacos, three trompos out front twist slowly over the coals wafting wonderful smells across nearby neighbourhoods. The restaurant is large and so are the crowds that often have to take turns at tables. With a long menu and full bar, patrons don’t want to leave, exhausting the energetic young waiters.
In the event that hunger strikes in the evening and tacos aren’t your choice, there is a surprise. Until the early hours, on the corner of Olas Altas and Rodolfo Gomez, there is an amazingly good hot dog stand. The cart reads D’Mikes. In general, you should avoid anything as potentially dubious as hot dogs, but not D’Mikes, they are an inviting exception.
Exhilarating eating experiences! Culinary celebrations! These popular street chefs join the famous local restaurant chefs in making Puerto Vallarta Mexico’s foremost epicurean destination.
