To many, a visit to any of the Patzcuaro hotels is an exceptionally special retreat. Whether we come to renew our spirit or for the simple pleasures of this centuries-old village, or we come on business, we always come away refreshed in mind and soul. We come to attend the festivities of the Day of the Dead and under the stars of the frigid night sky we visit those who have preceded us into the great beyond. We celebrate Christmas and Easter in Patzcuaro for the parades, dancing and concerts. We come to see the Purepecha people who dress in masks and native costumes while dancing the “Dance of the Ancients” in the squares and restaurants of Patzcuaro.
Patzcuaro means “The Place Where the Hummingbirds Are”. These beautiful iridescent birds still hover over radiant blossoms of many colors to sip nectar, yet not in the great flocks of earlier times, yet they are still visible from most Patzcuaro hotels. High into the mountains above the village is the sanctuary of another beautiful creature, the monarch butterfly. The guides of Patzcuaro can take you there during the monarch season, from November through March.
Janitzio, the largest island on Lake Patzcuaro, is owned entirely by the Purepecha indigenous people, and can be visited by boat. Tickets are sold at the pier for approximately $3.00 US. The 30 person launch leaves when the seats are filled, and if you are lucky, you will be serenaded during the 20 minute crossing. A leisurely walking tour of the island will take you an hour even with frequent stops for photo opportunities.
In Patzcuaro you’ll find a street market almost daily (Their biggest day is Friday) where vendors sell hand-knitted sweaters, famous Uruapan lacquered plates, copper creations from Santa Clara de Cobre (the copper capital of Mexico), masks from Tocuaro, pottery glazed in the manner of its originating pueblo and anything else you can think of.
Places of interest include the Biblioteca, once a 16th century church, Casa de Once Patios (House of Eleven Patios), a former nunnery turned shopping center for Michoacan arts-and-crafts and the Museo de Artes Populares houses an incredible collection of regional handicrafts. Two steep blocks away is the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Virgin of Health).
Good restaurants are plentiful, and the most popular (and expensive) are found surrounding the Plaza Vasco De Quiroga. The Gran Hotel (01-434-342-0443) or Los Escudos (01-434-342-0138) are both downtown, have reasonable rates and are out-of-the-ordinary, centuries-old places to lodge.
Plan to spend at least a weekin one of the Patzcuaro hotels, as day-trips exploring nearby towns will keep you busy after you see Patzcuaro proper. You won’t want to miss seeing Angahuan where in 1943 a volcano erupted in a corn field and grew for almost 8 years before becoming dormant. Here you can still see the top of San Juan’s church while the lower portion is buried in lava. Tzintzuntzan, the ancient Tarascan capital dating from the 13th century is only 18 kms northeast and should be explored. Any guitar player will recognize the name of Mexico’s guitar center, Paracho, which is nearby.
Many other pueblos in the area offer special crafts as each pueblo specialized in one specific type of item, such as hand-crafted wooden furniture, chandeliers and candelabras, straw wreaths and ornaments, and embroidery and cutwork.
Getting There: Drive Highway 15 east towards Mexico City for about 3 hours and begin looking for signs directing you to Patzcuaro. Or, as I always suggest, take a tour. Tours give you an overview and more knowledge than you can get any other way.
