Having enlisted another adventurer and a diesel pick-up truck, we set off to find the elusive Hacienda at San Sebastian. I heard about the place years ago but have never met anyone who could give me any information about it. We left Ajijic on Friday afternoon, planning to stay overnight at Talpa and then over to Mascota to see if we could glean some information about San Sebastian.
After leaving Ameca for the final leg to Talpa, we began to see people walking along the side of the road with walking sticks and backpacks. I had often been told by people here in the Lake area about the pilgrimage to Talpa, in fact had a secretary whose father had walked there from Chapala. My present secretary tells me that her mother took a bus to Ameca and walked from there to Talpa. At any rate, there were thousands of pilgrims on the road; it seems that March is the traditional time for the faithful to do their pilgrimage. There were palapa-roofed shelters for them all along the route, fireplaces for cooking, and the restaurants had dozens of extra tables and chairs set up.
We were told that we would probably get rooms in Talpa, but none in the villages in between because the pilgrims were not planning on reaching Talpa until the following day. So, we left hurriedly for Talpa. As darkness overtook us, we saw campfires all along the roadside, as many people took advantage of the palapa-roofed shelters to set up camp, cook, and spend the night. It was an impressive sight to say the least. Arriving in Talpa, we found a room for that night only. Everything was booked solid for Saturday and Sunday nights.
As we left Talpa, we gave a ride to a family returning to Mascota, which was our next destination and they helped us find the road out of Mascota San Sebastian to San Sebastian. We had to pay 10 pesos to use this road, perhaps one of the worst pieces of road I've ever been on, the money is earmarked for paving sometime in the distant future. Right now, it's unpaved, narrow and steep; one is always going up, down or around another curve, first one way then the other. Road conditions are bad enough, but then there are landslides to contend with as well as creeks to ford; it took us three and a half hours to make the trip, but they're working on it and it is improving. .
At La Estancia, we turned to go up to San Sebastian.
After another half hour or so, we came upon a landing strip just as the plane from Puerta Vallarta was unloading a group of tourists. Arriving in San Sebastian, we found it full of tourists, many of whom were Europeans, two hotels, restaurants, a perfectly charming little mining town turned into a tourist town. Upon inquiring about the Hacienda, we were directed back to the vicinity of the airstrip, which it turns out, is on the Hacienda property.
Back we went, found the entrance and after another half mile or so the Hacienda itself. Magical spot!! No electricity, no telephones, total quiet with only the sound of the creek rippling along at the entrance. One hears no traffic noise at all, but occasionally the plane from Vallarta passes overhead.
While in San Sebastian, we were visited by tourists on horseback who had come to see the Hacienda; apparently this is a frequent occurrence. While in Vallarta, one can purchase a package tour to San Sebastian and the Hacienda for a couple of days or so, arriving by plane or by horseback.
A young man, Lance, arrived to stay at the Hacienda while we were there. He gave us a mini-tour of the property as well as one of the town of San Sebastian.
I'm sorry I didn't have the time to explore the many mines there. Also, the area is "fighting cock" country (saw thousands being raised on farms) and I'm told that's an exciting spectacle. Things to do the next time I'm there.
Upon our arrival at the hacienda, I told the owner that we were starved so he got busy and prepared a meal for us. He has a garden where he grows all his own herbs, lettuces and vegetables. Thus the meal began with a fresh salad beyond compare, believe me when I tell you that it was positively delicious. The main course consisted of chicken breast sautéed with fresh onions, brown rice, fresh snow peas and jicama. I had brought a bottle of wine with me, and that rounded out a lovely meal on the terrace of this beautiful building set next to a stream in the forest.How can life get any better?
How to get there: Jocotepec to route 15 towards Guadalajara. Follow signs for Fortin de las Flores, just before you get to the Pemex station at Tlajumulco. Now look for signs to Tala, then to Ameca.Ê At Ameca, go straight, don't turn into the town. This road goes to Talpa and Mascota. At Mascota bear right as you enter the town and either ask or look for the sign (there's only one that I know of, across the road from the Pemex station) for La Estancia, San Sebastian and Puerta Vallarta. The turnoff to San Sebastian is at La Estancia, almost exactly half way between Mascota & Puerta Vallarta. As you approach San Sebastian there will be an airfield on your left, shortly after that you'll see a sign for "Hacienda Jalisco" also on your left. Unchain the gate and just follow the road. The accommodations are by reservation only; price $60 U.S. per person, meals included. FAX: (329) 7-0418 Attention Bud Acord. Allow a few days for a response because, as I said before, he has no phone, although the villagers were proud to point out to me that they have five in San Sebastian.
