In a city built of pink stone, façades sparkle with a rosy glint in sunlight. At night, street lamps from another era augment sculptured stone figures shadow wrought-ironed balconies, and light lovers’ paths through tree-lined parks.
The United Nations designated Morelia, the capital of Michoacan, a Treasure of Humanity. Founded in 1541, the city sits at five thousand feet in the beautiful Sierra Madre Mountains. In hotels, government buildings, and in private collections the connoisseur will note museum-quality masterpieces, statuary crafted by the ancient peoples of Mexico, and post-Columbian sculpture made even more beautiful with the passage of time.
In Colonial times the city center housed monasteries, convents, schools of religious orders and hospitals. Now those wonderful buildings have become magnificent hotels, public libraries, university campuses, law schools, museums, markets, and government offices.
Throughout time the scholarly and the weary have gathered in Morelia’s beautiful plazas, parks, and gardens. Today, from ornate wrought iron park benches under canopies of leafy green shade trees, visitors gaze at rich displays of manicured trees, shrubs and flowering plants that surround aged fountains and gazebos.
An aqueduct (1785) lies to the east of downtown. All around the arched aqueduct are beautifully landscaped parks. Statuary of mythical figures and of great religious and political leaders tower over beautifully formed fountains and wide walkways. Bosque Cuaugtemoc (Forest of San Pedro) borders the southern edge of the aqueduct, and is the home of The Museum of Natural History and the Museum of Contemporary Art.
The façade of a church beside the aqueduct is of attractive pink stone and appears from the outside like many other. Nevertheless, when you enter, prepare to be stunned. You’ll see incredible beauty in the shimmering golden glow, the pinks, blues, reds, and yellows of the intricate baroque art. There’s richness, a soul-stirring opulence, that momentarily overwhelms the unsuspecting visitor.
High above the city in the Santa Maria hills is Villa Montana. This secluded small luxury hotel is relatively new (1959) and is graced with pre-Columbian art on loan from a local museum. Gardens sporting a riot of color and ancient artwork harmonize with terracotta colored villas. Multilevel pathways offer perfect views of the city only 15 mins. away. (Approx. $185 to $310 USD). (443) 314-0231 or www.villamontana.com
Los Juaninos Hotel is downtown near the grand Cathedral and lushly planted square. Beginning as the Bishop’s luxurious residence at the end of the 17th century, Los Juaninos has had many incarnations. Over time restorations have created a brilliant blend of Mexican colonial, neoclassic, romance and gothic in a special category boutique hotel of charm and graciousness. ($144 to $252 USD)
Tel: (443) 312-0036. www.hoteljuaninos.com.mx
On the economical side, Hotel Plaza Morelos is charming, close to the city center and sits beside the aqueduct and beautiful gardens. (Approx. $50.00 USD per dble.) (443) 312-4300.
www.mexonline.com/plazamorelos.htm
Here in the highlands of Mexico, where time moves slowly, you’ll find evidence of the blending of distinctly different customs of clearly diverse people, the unification of deeply rooted religious values of two extremely dissimilar cultures, and the preservation of structures from another era.
After you return home you’ll remember this charming city and realize that you haven’t spent near enough time in vibrant, intriguing Morelia. Across the centuries you’ll hear voices call you back again and again.
Take the Guadalajara-Morelia toll road (15D) for 196 miles east. You’ll turn right at the sign denoting Highway 43 (Morelia), then drive 15 mins. to the heart of Morelia.
